Tuesday, June 7, 2011

A Day Cap in "a Pretty Shape for Almost Any Purpose" Tutorial

I had yet another fun sewing adventure yesterday.  Today was our volunteer day at TITP, and since my hair is so short, I really needed a day cap.  As you know, I've made a few out of muslin, but that is just too hot.  At the Pioneer Extravaganza the other day I saw a closeup of Dianna's which inspired me.

I thought I'd better get to work.  I went to the fabric store and apparently they don't have lawn or batiste, so cotton-poly voile was the closest I could get.  Luckily, I'd already done some of my research in The Workwoman's Guide, so once I got started it only took about 2 hours to come up with this hand-sewn day cap.  This is a really easy pattern -- a good one to start with.

I still need to add my ties, and I'm not sure I'll add a ruffle.  I probably should add the ruffles, but I'm just not a ruffly girl.

Here's how I did it:

1.  The instructions begin on page 67-68 of The Workwoman's Guide and images are found on Plate 9, Figures 27 & 28.

2.  Once you translate the directions, you see that your fabric should be approximately 18" wide by 12.5" high.   My selvage edge was the 12.5".  Fold the fabric in half so that it is 9" wide by 12.5" high -- the fold should be on the right side.  The diagram is more square than the actual measured piece.

3.   I wish the diagram was more clear, but I'll try and tell you how much to cut out.  From the top left corner, measure down 3.5".  Then mark in 2.25".  That little rectangular piece will come out.  From the bottom right corner of that little rectangle, mark down 4.5".  From that low point draw your curved line up to the top as shown in the picture.  I could have done a little better job.

 The opened view.

 4.  Stitch, right sides together (not that I could tell which side was the right side) the two short ends as shown below.  I made about a 1/4" seam.  Depending on how frey-ey your fabric is, you'll probably want to whip stitch the raw edges together.

5.  Run a gathering stitch along the curved edge and gather evenly to fit the width of the slit/two short stumpy pieces. 

6.  With right sides together, sew the gathered edge to the smooth edge.  I again hand-stitched a 1/4" seam and whip stitched my edges together.

7.  Hem the bottom  and front -- my bottom hem was probably 3/8" - 1/2"; my front was around 1/4".

8.  Secure a string a couple inches in from the front corners of the cap (I don't tie a knot, I just sew a couple loops over each other to anchor), run the string through the hem using a long needle, and pop the thread out the center back of the cap.  I had my strings coming inward, but I think outward is good, too.  I don't know if there's a "right" way.

9.  Try on the cap, pull the strings to fit, and tie.

I suppose I could have a little more room in the back...?

Looking kinda sleepy...


Michelle-ozark crafter said...

That is a very adorable cap! Might have to give it a go!

Emily said...

Super duper easy!! Give it a go!

Dianna Diehl said...

Nice job --- I've never seen that style made up before.

My vote would be to add the ruffle. It doesn't have to be very ruffly,Just gathered slightly. It would frame your face better, and hide the short hair in back better. And historically, most day caps have some kind of ruffle.

Emily said...

Thanks Dianna!! Sorry I got your name as Diane!!! :) I figured it was more authentic to do the ruffle, so I probably will add a loose one, like you said.

Darlene said...

Emily, I can't believe you did that already! Your cap turned out very well and I vote for a ruffle too. You are amazing!

Liz C said...

Very nice! The cuts in WWG are designed for the higher hair of the 30s and early 40s, so the sizing/fit is just about perfect if your hair is bunned a bit higher (think, mid-to-high ponytail level). It can absolutely be modified for a lower center of hair mass, too... just increase the depth of the cap, overall, and you'll have more to draw in with that casing.

I ditto the minimal frill... doesn't have to be much. Even 1.25 the fullness will be lovely, but not foofy... still really easy to iron. :)


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