Tuesday, November 5, 2013

Past Patterns 007/011 View B Men's Shirt

I just (nearly) finished the Past Patterns 007 View B Men's Shirt in size 40. Fairly recently Saundra Ros Altman, the designer, has split out the two shirts originally in 007, added some larger sizing and is now selling the two shirts separately as patterns  010 & 011.  Under the new packaging, this view B is 011 (1840-1870).  I did shorten the shirt a bit.

Made up, it looks good on the hanger, but lays kinda funny on my husband, but that may be due to his posture?

I used a cotton sateen so it is very soft.  I incorrectly machine stitched everything, even more than I normally do, because I didn't want to spend the time hand sewing.  However, I guess to make up for it, I did the gussets by hand (guess there's no other way to do those than by hand anyway), and I even did all 5 of my buttonholes, which is a first for me!  I did a few practice buttonholes, got a few tips from Liz Clark on how to do them better, and I think they turned out okay!  I think I gained some confidence in doing them when Liz said you need to do about 100 to get them right.  I did tons of hand sewing/embroidery when I was a kid, so I figured that had to count for something, and I think it really helped.

I'm really excited to try View A because it's more like the shirts in The Workwoman's Guide which I hope to also figure out later and put up as a tutorial.  But first, I need to make a Christmas stocking for the baby (she didn't even get one last year!) and make a baptism dress for our daughter.  After that, I think I'll hit men's shirts again.

See how the pleats don't lay flat up by his collarbones? Does it need to be bigger?

Hand sewn buttonholes.  Not too shabby.  I ordered some shell buttons on E-Bay and was really excited about them.  Originally I thought wood was the way to go being a natural product, but no, shell and China are authentic.

Gussets.  Actually, I put the other one in backwards, but I think I'll leave it incorrect. You know, make it like those Amish quilts with a mistake?  It won't be too hard to fix if it starts to bug me.

And yes, the biggest mistake.  Because I shortened the shirt, somehow I did not shorten the front and back to the same length! So instead of buying new fabric, I just pieced.


Amanda said...

I can't stand making gussets but they really add to the movement and look don't they? I wonder if you cut the section for the pleats a bit shorter? That is odd but maybe it'll lay better when under a vest? I really like the shirt.

Liz C said...

You officially Get Credit for the earlier embroidery practice. :)

I think the issue is shoulder-slope; his is more squared than the pattern assumes. If the collar were off entirely, you could test-pinch and see taking a wedge out of the shoulder seam (more in front than in back most likely), with nothing removed about half-way out on the shoulder, to about 1" or even a bit less removed at the inner neckline edge, will lift the whole thing into his shoulder slope.

Then you'd re-cut the neckline curve to sit at the base of his neck in front, and re-attach the collar. Because you're getting rid of fabric that isn't needed for his body, it won't actually shorten the overall shirt, which is handy.

And I love your piecing in the back; it's a great period-thinking solution!

Lady D said...

Well done. I think it looks fine. I think its a case of once you've done a few shirts it'll come naturally. And you can sew more of it by hand as you'll know what to expect it to take time wise.
I made myself a shirt last week (with detachable collar) and totally messed up the sleeve/cuff placket. I'm hoping no one will notice. lol!

Danice said...

I just now found your blog, and love it! Very historical and helpful. Now following your blog :)


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