"I do not think it means what you think it means"

As I've gotten a bit deeper into this historic clothing stuff, I've learned that I really don't know a whole lot about fabric. To make matters worse, some of the fabric terms they used 150 years ago have evolved to mean something different now! Here are some of the terms that have caught me off guard.

Jean: No, not denim, but "a different, lighter cotton textile" (http://www.economicexpert.com/a/Denim.htm). On the William Booth, Draper site, it is also called Kersey Wove Virginia Cloth.

I'm hoping the William Booth, Draper site info is still accurate for our time period as that site seems to be for a slightly earlier period.

It was a "strong twilled fabric" where "the cotton lays toward the wrong side of the fabric keeping the wool toward the outside and away from the body. In the 18th century this fabric is one of many types of Virginia cloth which was a homespun fabric usually made of cotton and woolen fibers. Kersey is both a fabric and weave and in the case of Virginia cloth indicates a twill weave. Virginia cloth of kersey weave was used to make durable cheep men's outer garments like breeches, jackets, coats, and waistcoats. Not all Virginia cloth had a kersey weave to it there were many other types of Virginia cloth" (http://www.wmboothdraper.com/index.html).


Image from: http://www.periodfabric.com/JeanCloth.htm


Image from http://www.wmboothdraper.com/Wool/wools_index.htm#jean

Muslin: When I started doing my own reproduction sewing a couple years ago, I read that they used muslin. Yippee, it's cheap! I was disappointed to find out, though, that "modern cotton muslin is much heavier than period muslin, which was a fine, long staple cotton fabric, and was most often quite sheer." A modern option might be "imported sheer batiste, organdy, barred voile, dimity, and other very delicate, sheer articles" Elizabeth Stewart Clark, The Dressmaker's Guide. Not that I know what all of those are . . . .

Voile image from http://www.alibaba.com/product/textile2000-10771620-10331077/Terrylene_Fabric_Sheer_Fabric_Voile_Fabric.html

Checked Muslin:  A reader asked if gingham could be a replacement for checked muslin.  My initial reaction was sure, they're both checked, right?  Wrong again!  Boy it sure is humbling to be wrong all the time!! ;-)  Lovely Liz Clark clarified:

Unfortunately, no, gingham isn't at all like a checked muslin. . . .  Checked muslin is white on white, with the "whiter" checks being made of more densely woven threads.

Flannel: When I was making the "Baby Frock" in The Workwoman's Guide, I kept running across the word flannel, as in "first flannel gown" and "child's day flannel." I wasn't sure what it meant. Were these flannel PJs or what?

Elizabeth Stewart Clark mentions in The Dressmaker's Guide that when flannel was used back then, it commonly meant wool flannel, not the cotton flannel we use today.

Additionally, she mentions that is the same for broadcloth (wool, not cotton). Hmmm. Looks like my cotton broadcloth is wrong.

Lawn: No, not the green stuff that grows in your yard. I think I heard that lawn can also be a modern substitute for historic muslin, I just didn't know what lawn was. According to Silk Road, modern "cotton lawn is a fabulously fine, sheer cotton fabric with a tight plain weave and a graceful drape. The finish may be soft or crisp. Not as stiff as cotton organdy. Lawn gets its name from Laon, France where it was first manufactured. Used to make baby clothes, lingerie, semi-fitted blouses and dresses. Sews easily, creases well."

Stuff: When I first read "stuff" in The Workwoman's Guide, I thought it was funny that she was using the term like we use it today and stuff. However, the more I read, I determined that it must be a real fabric. I have not yet figured out what kind, but I'll update here when I do!

Aug 1, 2013:  Ha!Ha!  The William Booth Draper site explains "stuff" and other types of fabrics.  This is great! "Stuff is a generic term for many types of worsted wools. Worsted wools are a good wool summer cloth."

2013: For underclothing (chemise, drawers, petticoats), modern Pimatex broadcloth or Kona Cotton works well.  Percale sheets can also work.

Dresses

I had some misinformation on here regarding women's dresses. I talked to Elizabeth Stewart Clark and she gave me some better info.
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I've not come across anything to indicate that linen was used for women's dresses at the mid-century. Cotton replaced linen as a cheap dress fabric earlier in the century (1820s), and linen use by the 1840s is increasingly limited to chemises, drawers, some nightgowns, rare petticoats, and some personal accessories, as well as aprons. As an apron, linen is particularly advantageous--it doesn't sour as easily as cotton! So, if you want to use linen for summer wear, limit it to 100% linen for chemises, neckerchiefs, and possibly a tan/white linen apron check (1/4" gingham in 100% linen).

I can't recommend the linen/rayon blends. The rayon defeats the purpose of the linen. :)

Wool is appropriate in any season of the year. Sheer (seriously--transparent, read-a-book-through-it sheer!) wools are used for summer dresses, while wools marketed as "tropical" or "summer weight" today can be used three to four seasons of the year in many areas. Houndstooth, herringbone, and pinstripe wools should be avoided for mid-century dresses; look for plain solid colors, plaids, and checks.

[Stripes, checks, and plaids] can be pretty popular as patterns for dresses through the era! Print styles change a lot from 1846 to 1865; with a little study of original garments, though, as well as some key reference books, you can train your eye to choose from among repro cotton prints, and that opens the style options up a lot.

The "homespun" cloth in stores today is too rough for better daywear. As a lower working class dress, though, they can be useful.

Lace was not generally applied to cotton dresses. Instead, tiny amounts of true lace, or crochet/knit laces done in lace-weight threads, were applied to accessory items, like handkerchiefs, collars, cuffs, and undersleeves. This holds true for pairing lace with silk and wool dresses, too... it's not commonly applied right to the dress.

Unfortunately, most of the "crochet lace" used today is far, far too chunky and heavy to be useful in repro clothing.

[Pockets] are not common on dresses, however (those tend to use a pocket set into a seam near the side of the skirts). The separate dress pockets had a peak in popularity much earlier in the century, but by the 1840s, their use was essentially relegated to travel, and not to daily living.
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Liz has more info on ladies' dresses on her site, as well as here.

Fabric

So you may wonder where I get all my Pioneer fabric. The Bernina store in Centerville moved up to Ogden, so they cleared out as much of their fabric as they could. I went several times and bought as much of their Civil War fabric as I could afford (plus notions). I spent at least $150, but this is what I got (plus the fabric for the things I've already made!)

Some web sites that sell reproduction fabric are http://www.reproductionfabrics.com/ and http://www.periodfabric.com/

The William Booth, Draper site seems to explain a lot of history regarding fabric.